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    How to Get Started in Hobby RC: Body Painting Your Vehicles

    We've run through the basics of several types of remote controlled vehicles, from cars to boats to planes--and some tweaks to modify them. But one of the best ways to personalize an RC kit is to give it a fresh coat of paint. This guide will focus on the basics of painting bodies for RC cars--a genuinely fun and rewarding art form.

    Most RC car bodies are made from polycarbonate plastic (aka Lexan). It is incredibly tough stuff, which makes it ideal for absorbing the abuse that RC cars are routinely subjected to. The bodies are formed by vacuforming a sheet of clear Lexan over a mold. The body is then painted on the inside surface, which effectively makes the plastic a thick, shiny clear coat. If painted correctly, a body can last and look good for a long time.

    The Caveats

    If you are an accomplished airbrush or spray paint graffiti artist, you already possess many of the skills necessary to paint a RC car body. There are, however, a few elements that are specific to painting car bodies that you must consider. The number one thing to know is that most paints will not stick to Lexan. You must use specially formulated products that are typically sold in hobby shops as RC car body paint. This isn’t a marketing gimmick. These are truly the only paints I have seen that bond reliably to Lexan. If you use some random hardware store paint, it will only look good until that first crash. Then, the paint will begin to chip and flake off, randomly eroding your artistic efforts. Trust me; don’t get cheap with the paint. Buy the right stuff and have no regrets.

    Since we will be painting the inside of the body, some things may be reversed from painting tasks you are used to. Obviously, any masking must be done as a mirror image. Less obvious is the need to apply the darkest colors first. Since it is difficult to achieve a fully opaque finish, having a dark color behind a light color may affect the tint of the light color. Applying the dark color first negates this effect. Keep this in mind as you plan out your paint scheme and order of operations.

    Working with Lexan requires special paint as well as specific tools to achieve clean, long-lasting results. A variety of common masking options can be used.

    You may need to do trimming or drilling of the car body. I highly recommend using tools designed for the job. The curved blades on Lexan scissors make it easy to trim wheel wells and other rounded areas without creating jagged edges on the body. A tapered reamer is the only sensible way to drill holes in Lexan. Regular drill bits will grab and tear as they go through, often leaving a mess. . If you are using a body that will require cutting and drilling, it is usually better to do this before painting. It helps to have the body clear when you are trying to get everything aligned and fitted.

    iPhone 6 Plus Mockups and Size Comparisons

    Apple announced its new iPhone 6 smartphones yesterday, both of which are larger than the current iPhone 5/S/C design. To get a sense of how the 4.7-inch and 5.5-inch screen phones fit in our hands, we 3D printed mockups based on Apple's posted spec dimensions and compare them to our current phones. Plus, the jeans pocket test! (Thanks to Jeremy Williams for the 3D printing!)

    Tested In-Depth: Sony RX100 III Compact Camera

    We sit down to discuss Sony's latest high-end compact camera, the RX100 Mark III. Having tested both predecessors to this model, we evaluate its new features like the electronic viewfinder and improved zoom lens, as well as its image quality compared to big DSLR cameras. Here's why it's one of our favorite new cameras to use!

    Apple Announces Its Watch Collection, Launching 2015

    Here it is. Apple's watch. And it's decidedly a watch, not a curved band or "wrist wearable" as we and some other people had predicted. Here's what you should know about it.

    The Apple watch is a touchscreen device worn on your wrist, running a special version of the iOS interface. The big deal here is the user interface--users will interact with it via touchscreen, voice, a dedicated button, and a crown dial on the right side. This digital crown dial is used to zoom in and out of applications as well as scroll and navigate. On the bottom of the watch are four optical sensors for monitoring the wearer's heartbeat, as well as an inductive charger for wireless charging. Activity monitoring is a big part of the Apple Watch, and an Activity app monitors different types of motion like workouts or sitting down at the office. Feedback is provided via a small speaker and haptic feedback provided over what Apple calls a "Taptic Engine." The color screen displays digital clockfaces like Android Wear watches, and you can tap into Apple services like Siri and the new Apple Pay. Developers will be able to adapt their apps and create Watch-specific apps with Apple's WatchKit SDK and APIs.

    The Apple Watch connects to iPhones--starting with the iPhone 5C--via Bluetooth 4.0, but also has Wi-Fi connectivity. As for when you'll be able to buy one, Apple has only said that its Watch will come out in 2015, with a starting price of $350. Apple Watch comes in two sizes--38mm and 42mm--as well as several different finishes and strap options. What are your thoughts about this new smart watch? We'll be talking about it in-depth on this week's podcast, which we're recording tomorrow.

    Apple Announces iPhone 6 and iPhone 6 Plus

    As expected, Apple has announced its iPhone 6 line of phones, with two sizes. Here's what's new about them, with our thoughts coming later today.

    The two phones are the iPhone 6 and 6 Plus, in 4.7-inches and 5.5-inches. 1334x750 resolution with a 326ppi for the 4.7-inch model, which is the same pixel density of the current iPhones. The larger iPhone 6 Plus has a 1080p display (401ppi), not the 2208 × 1242 resolution that some had hoped. Both phones are thinner than the current iPhone 5S, at 6.9mm and 7.1mm. The larger phones will show more on the home screen (as well as a horizontal view), as well as a landscape mode for apps to show multiple panes. Kind of like the iPad. Apple also talked about its new iPhones using a better screen than previous generations, with an "ion-strengthen" glass, better polarizer, and ultrathin backlight.

    To accommodate the new phone sizes, the sleep/power buttons are now located on the right side of the phones for thumb access. Apple also decided to add a one-handed "reachability" function to the phones--double-touching the home button slides the whole display down so users can access the top of their app pane with the thumb. For the 1080p display that's not the same pixel density as the past phones, apps scale up to full screen using a software scaler.

    Other new hardware is Apple's A8 processor, which Apple claims to be 50% faster than the last generation. Battery life for the iPhone 6 is slightly improved over the 5S, but the iPhone 6 Plus has two hours of extra battery life for web browsing (12 hours from 10). 802.11AC is built-in, along with a new LTE chip that supports up to 20 LTE bands and voice over LTE.

    The iPhone 6's camera is still a 8MP sensor with a f/2.2 lens and dual-tone flash, but the sensor is redesigned for faster autofocus with phase detection and better tone mapping. The iPhone 6 uses digital image stabilization, but the iPhone 6 Plus has built-in optical image stabilization. The camera lenses also protrudes out from the back of the phone a little bit. 1080p video capture is capped at 60fps, but high-speed recording at 720p jumps to 240fps (8X slow mo). With the phase-detect sensor, continuous autofocus now works in video.

    The phones will come in Silver, Space Grey, and Gold, and pricing for the iPhone 6 starts at $200 on contract for 16GB, with the step up being 64GB for $300. The iPhone 6 Plus costs $100 more for each corresponding model, starting at $300 on contract for 16GB. Pre-orders open this Friday, and the phones will be released on the 19th.

    Choosing Buttons and Joysticks for a Custom Arcade Cabinet

    Arcade parts website FocusAttack.com sells 11 varieties of 30mm Japanese arcade buttons, and without some research, it's hard to spot the minute differences that separate one from another. Some are push-buttons, which install into an arcade panel with a simple snap. Others are screw-buttons, which anchor into a wooden surface. There are also smaller 24mm buttons, and buttons with clear tops or clear rims that can be paired with fancy LED lighting. But most importantly, there is the choice between Sanwa and Seimitsu manufactured buttons, Japan's two juggernauts of arcade hardware.

    When you're building your own arcade cabinet, you want the best buttons for your games. But wading into the minutia of arcade parts unprepared feels like going up against a world-class Street Fighter player--while you're clumsily figuring out how to throw a fireball, they're stringing together moves you didn't even know existed. There are just as many varieties of joysticks as there are buttons, each with their own nuanced feel.

    Knowing the differences between these components enables building an arcade machine for exactly the kinds of games you want to play--or, by mixing and matching hardware, you can create a machine with inputs that are great for a wide swath of arcade genres. For the Tested MAME machine, that's exactly what we wanted--something perfect for fighting games like Street Fighter, primed for SHMUPs like Ikaruga, and still able to handle classic 80s games like Pac-Man.

    Here's what we learned while researching our arcade controls.

    The General Overview: Japan vs. America

    There's an easy high-level way to categorize arcade parts: Japanese and American.

    Before we get into the nuances of different models of buttons and joysticks, there's an easy high-level way to categorize arcade parts: Japanese and American. If you grew up going to arcades in the US or Europe, you're likely familiar with American arcade parts made by the company Happ. They're easy to recognize: Happ buttons are concave and have to be pushed in relatively far before they offer that classic arcade click. Happs joysticks typically have elongated cylindrical bat tops, as opposed to the spherical tops of Japanese sticks.

    Japanese parts primarily come from two companies: Sanwa and Seimitsu. Each company produces multiple joysticks and buttons, but in general their buttons are flat or slightly convex, require far less pressure to activate, and have slightly larger faces. Their joysticks are also generally looser than Happ sticks, meaning they have more play to them. The round ball tops of Sanwa and Seimitsu sticks can be replaced with bat tops to make their grips more like Happ sticks.

    A big factor in choosing the parts for your arcade machine comes from personal preference. If you grew up going to American arcades and using American parts, they're going to feel more natural at first, but you might be missing out on something better. The website Slagcoin, which contains a wealth of knowledge about joystick parts, outlines some of the differences between Japanese and American designs and offers up a heavily, heavily researched opinion: Japanese parts are better.

    "Sanwa and Seimitsu make high-quality parts which will not likely disappoint. Happ/IL is a company that seems centered more on simple, public vending parts with high durability at the sacrifice of precision," he writes. "I am not exactly a fanboy for Japanese parts, just quality parts. In fact, it is my opinion that many more Americans would compete internationally much stronger in many more games if our country’s standard/common joysticks were of better quality. I would very much like to see Happ/IL or some other company do better."

    The evidence to support that claim is in the nuances of various button and joystick models. Let's start with joystick technology, the Sanwa, Seimitsu, and Happ options, and which joysticks are best for which games.

    In Brief: Amazon Drops the Price on the Fire Phone

    After only a couple of weeks, Amazon has addressed one of our complaints about the Fire Phone, its high price. The 32GB model is now $0.99 with a two year contract, and the 64GB model is $100 on-contract. Amazon also dropped the off-contract price down to $450, $100 more than the entry-level Nexus 5. Even if you're tempted by the new lower price, don't be. You still shouldn't buy a Fire Phone.

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    In Brief: Custom Fix It Felix, Jr Arcade Cabinet

    We're kind of in an arcade fix today. Just as we were posting part three of our cocktail cabinet build video, reader Sergio Meyer sent over word of his own cabinet build that he's been working on with his dad. But instead of your typical multi-game MAME cabinet, Sergio's cab is a faithful recreation of the Fix It Felix, Jr. cabinet as seen in the Disney movie Wreck-It-Ralph. Sergio has been documenting his build over the course of 17 weeks, and it's now in a playable state. The most interesting thing about this project may what software he's using to run the fictional game. Disney released a Flash version of the game online, but arcade enthusiasts have recreated it to run in Windows. And as it turns out, a version that Disney made for its promotional cabinets actually leaked online.

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    Google Play App Roundup: Boxer, CounterSpy, and Bio Inc

    There are far too many apps flowing into the Play Store on a daily basis to find all the good stuff yourself. This is the problem that Google Play App Roundup seeks to solve. Every week we tell you about the best new and newly updated apps in the Play Store. Just click the app name to head right to the Play Store and check things out for yourself.

    This week there's a cool new mail client, a game about sneaking, and a biomedical strategy simulator.


    The official Gmail app does a pretty good job when it comes to managing email on Android, but maybe you want something with a few more options, or you don't use a Google address all the time. There are plenty of options out there, but the newly released Boxer email client is one of the best I've ever come across. It might even be good enough to replace the Gmail app for some.

    Boxer supports Gmail, Exchange, Outlook, Yahoo, Hotmail, iCloud, AOL, Office 365, and generic IMAP and POP3 accounts. The setup process is painless and configures the settings automatically based on the type of email address you add. Like the regular Gmail app, it has push notifications for new messages and includes rich Android notifications.

    If you're using a Gmail account, Boxer has built-in support for labels, stars, and threaded messages. Although, I've noticed a few threads broken up for some reason. The interface is very light and clean with a modern Android aesthetic. The navigation panel provides quick access to all your labels and folders too. Boxer scales appropriately to phones and tablets, with a two-pane UI for tablets.

    The message list is typical of mail clients at first glance, but there's something very cool going on behind the scenes. Boxer has swipe controls that can be used to manage messages, but they're much more powerful than the swipe actions for Gmail and other apps. The left and right swipe directions are split up into short and long swipes. For example, a short swipe to the left might archive a message, whereas a long swipe deletes it. The right swipes can add a label for a short swipe, and trigger a quick reply for a long one.

    What's more, you can use the swipe controls on more than one message at a time by multi-selecting and then swiping on any of the selected messages. It's an incredibly powerful tool, but you have to pay up to take full advantage of it. The free version of Boxer does not include the option to change the default swipe actions, but you can get the pro version for $9.99 through an in-app purchase. Yeah, that's a lot for a mobile app, but inviting five of your friends will also unlock the pro version. It's also $9.99 for Exchange support, unfortunately.

    I haven't had any issues sending or receiving messages in Boxer, and I've actually gotten quite used to the swipe actions. I also really appreciate the integration with Evernote and Dropbox. I'm not sure if Boxer will replace Gmail for me, but it's an impressive app nonetheless.

    Tested Projects: Building a Custom Arcade Cabinet, Part 3

    With the top and side panels of the arcade cabinet cut out, we move onto the control boards and the holes needed for all the buttons, joysticks, and other gaming controls. Different types of buttons and sticks for each of the panels require unique mounts, so John Duncan teaches us how to set up a router to cut the right kind of hole for each control scheme. (This video was brought to you by Premium memberships on Tested. Learn more about how you can support us with memberships!)

    The Best Android Smartphone for Your Network (August 2014)

    Big things are happening in the Android phone ecosystem these days. With a gaggle of phone announcements in the last few days, it's time to check in on the options you have on the big four US carriers. There are plenty of compelling options, but is now the time to wait it out? Let's go over your options.


    AT&T will be carrying the Samsung Galaxy Note 4 and the new Moto X in the next few weeks. If you find yourself on Ma Bell, you need to decide if the current options are compelling enough to take the plunge or if you need to wait it out. If you're in need of a new device right now, there are two options--the LG G3 and the Samsung Galaxy S5.

    Starting with LG's new flagship, the G3 is pushing past 1080p as the first major OEM to put a 1440p screen on a smartphone.The G3 is plastic with a removable back and a 3000mAh (removable) battery, but the plastic LG uses actually feels rather nice as far as plastic goes. The design is overall very slick and the rear-facing buttons work extremely well. The narrow bezels also make the large screen somewhat manageable.

    As for the specs, you're looking at a Snapdragon 801, 3GB of RAM, 32GB of storage, and a 5.5-inch 2560x1440 LCD. It's a real beast of a phone. I like the screen in general, but it is a little on the dim side. The colors are more dull than you'd see on AMOLED and the contrast could be higher. On the subject of battery life, the G3 seems to perform about the same as the GS5 over the course of a day. Note, the screen will suck down more power when it's running, but the standby time is great.

    The 13MP camera on the G3 uses laser autofocusing and it actually works as advertised. Even in a dark room, the G3 can focus when other devices simply fail. It also takes above average low-light shots. In bright light, it takes fabulous pictures.

    LG has also cleaned up its software act this year. The version of KitKat on the G3 is responsive and mostly free of junk you won't use. Samsung still includes more stuff you'll never use, but LG seems focused on a few things. One of the main selling points is Knock Code, which lets you wake and unlock the phone with a series of screen taps. It's really neat.

    This is a $200 phone on contract, and I'd say it's safe to buy this device on AT&T right now, even with big things on the way.

    Some of the Games I Had Fun Playing at PAX Prime 2014

    Now that PAX Prime has been over for several days, I've had some time to think about all the games I played. This year, I managed to play more games than I ever have in the past, and now that I've had some time to think about what I played, here's my short list of games I really, really enjoyed playing at PAX 2014. (We talked about most of these games on this week's This Is Only a Test, if you'd like more details.)

    Keep Talking and Nobody Explodes

    You're in a nondescript room. In front of you is a bomb. You have five minutes to defuse it. Also, you're wearing an Oculus Rift, and the instructions for defusing said bomb are written on paper in front of your friends, who are likely idiots. I only got the chance to play one round of Keep Talking and Nobody Explodes at PAX(I was one of the idiots); however, the game loop consisting of describing the bomb, figuring out the puzzles, and relaying the solutions to the Oculus-wearing defuser was one of the most satisfying communal gaming experiences I've ever had and a phenomenal demo for virtual reality. If you're showing off your new Oculus hardware to a group of friends, everyone has something to do, whether they're wearing the goggles or not. I can't wait to bust this out on board game night.

    Setting Up a 3D Print Server for the Printrbot Simple Metal Using Octopi

    Last week, I shared my experiences getting started with the Printrbot Simple Metal. Once I was happy with the quality of my prints I was getting, I wanted to try something a little different. I set up a print server for the printer, which would allow me to control and monitor it remotely, anywhere that I have power and a Wi-Fi network.

    OctoPrint provides a web interface for the printer that replaces Repetier. It lets me send gcode to the printer, adjust settings like temperature, zero the axes, heat up the print head, and change filament. It's free, open-source software, to boot. Instead of dedicating a PC or laptop to the print server, I wanted to use a Raspberry Pi. The Raspberry Pi is a $30, credit-card sized PC that uses a SD card for storage and has an Ethernet port and a couple of USB ports. Rather than set up Linux and then configure Octoprint myself, I was able to use a pre-configured version of Linux designed to run on the Raspberry Pi that includes Octoprint called OctoPi. Clever, right?

    I also picked up a few accessories for the Raspberry Pi, including a USB Wi-Fi dongle (so my print server will work where I don't have Ethernet), and a Raspberry Pi Camera Module (so I can watch the prints when I'm far away). After looking at the power available from the printer's motherboard and deciding that it probably wouldn't be sufficient to run the Raspberry Pi, I scrounged up an old USB power brick to power the Pi and found an unused SDcard in the same drawer. I already had an older Raspberry Pi revA around, but even if I'd bought a newer Raspberry Pi revB, along with the camera, a longer cable for the camera, and the Wi-Fi dongle, it would have cost less than $70.

    MakerBot Mystery Build: A Fast One!

    Friday means it's time for another mystery object to be printed from our trusty 3D printer! This week, Will sets the MakerBot to build something that we actually need to use on a regular basis for Tested production. Place your best guess as to what it is in the comments below!

    3D-Printed Daft Punk Helmet and Ducati Bike

    Here are two really awesome 3D printing projects that were brought to my attention today. Noe from Adafruit sent over their latest DIY guide to making your own 3D printed Daft Punk-inspired helmet, equipped with LED lights. The helmet shell is actually one solid piece, which you can download from Thingiverse and scale to your head. Printed with translucent PLA, Adafruit chose the visor color for their filament, and painted the gold around the outside for the helmet frame. The visor can also be outfitted with LED light strips and a control board for programming animations. It's not exactly a sculpted and cast Volpin piece, but would be fun to try out!

    Sean also sent me a link to this mind-blowing 3D-printed Ducati motocycle, posted to Ultimaker's blog. Effects artist and 3D printing enthusiast Jacky Wan used photo references to create a 3D model of the bike, then broke it down into pieces with meshes optimized for printing. He ended up with 40 individual pieces, many of which were designed to print with minimal or no support structures and could snap together. Painted and assembled, the model is a gorgeous testament to the ability of modern FDM printers. More photos of the bike here, and all of the STL files are here. Now that would be an awesome project to build!

    The Army’s Ersatz Gliders of WWII

    If necessity is the mother of invention, then wartime must be the mother of desperate ingenuity. There are countless stories throughout history of imaginative soldiers figuring out how to make do, and even thrive with whatever equipment was available. Sometimes, this sort of grassroots pragmatism occurred on a large scale. For instance, when the US Army Air Corps (USAAC ) urgently needed aircraft to train thousands of glider pilots during World War 2, they realized that the answer was already right under their nose.

    Why Gliders?

    Early in the war, the Germans used troop-laden gliders with great success in the quick capture of Fort Eben-Emael in Belgium. Subsequent German glider missions were much less effective and they were ultimately abandoned by the Wermacht. However, the Allies were already convinced that they needed a glider force of their own. The US and Britain began amassing enormous fleets of gliders as well as pools of trained pilots to fly them.

    The large Waco CG-4A was the eventual steed of most US glider pilots. It was considered easy to fly, but required training different from that for sport gliders. (Photo courtesy of the Museum of the US Air Force)

    The workhorse of the US glider force was the CG-4A combat glider. This boxy aircraft was designed by the Waco (pronounced like “taco”) Aircraft Company of Troy, Ohio and produced at factories all over the US. The unlikely mix of shops turning out CG-4A parts included the Steinway Piano Company and Anheuser-Busch. The fuselage, constructed of welded steel tubing, could hold up to 13 equipped troops in addition to the pilot and copilot. Alternately, the Waco could hold fewer troops and a Jeep or small howitzer. Regardless of how many troops were inside, their only protection from enemy fire was the painted canvas fabric stretched over the frame.

    In combat, a cargo plane (usually a Douglas C-47 Skytrain) towed one or two CG-4As over the landing zone. The glider pilots would release their plane from the tow rope and begin a rapid and irreversible return to solid ground. Ideally the pilot’s chosen landing spot would be free of obstacles and other gliders. Once the wheels touched the ground, the pilot would push the control yoke forward to bury the Waco’s front skids in the dirt and bring the glider to a quick and dusty stop. For many gliders, their first combat landing was their last.

    In Brief: Oculus VR Updates from IFA

    We're unfortunately not at IFA this week, but there are lots of good reports coming out from reporters there checking out hew mobile devices, like Samsung's Gear VR headset. Oculus VR is there to support that partnership, and interviews with the Oculus team are revealing few new bits of information about the state of the first consumer version release. In an interview with Eurogamer, Oculus founder Palmer Luckey indicated that CV1 would stay between $200 and $400, which is in line with past statements by Oculus CEO Brendan Iribe that CV1 would possibly be sold close to cost. For those hoping that the CV1 will use the Galaxy Note's 1440p display, John Carmack tweeted that the screen is fixed at 60Hz, but future products may fix that limitation to reach a 90Hz target (the DK2 runs at 75Hz). Engadget's feature on the Gear VR headset also has some good quotes from Carmack sharing his excitement for Samsung's speedy hardware iteration cycles. According to Carmack, Samsung mobile display technologies get updated twice a year (once with Galaxy S phones and again with Galaxy Note phones), so Oculus can also "innovate at that pace." Also, for current DK2 users, version 0.4.2 Beta of the Oculus SDK was just released, though existing demos have to be recompiled to take advantage of the bug fixes and changes.

    Bits to Atoms: Building the Millenbaugh Motivator, Part 5

    After three months of work, the Millenbaugh Motivator has been completed and the parts have been delivered. As Adam has demonstrated before, finishing is extremely important and he immediately got to work on the Motivator parts in order to detail and finish it along with his Mecha-Hand for Comic-Con. There were some difficulties with the crankshaft due to tight tolerances and the addition of paint, but I’m working on a revised version for him to use later.

    Adam's painted Motivator.

    Now that I delivered everything to Adam and am back home, the only thing left to do is the finishing work on my own Motivator! And to be honest, this is the part that I’ve been kind of dreading. This goes way back to when I was a kid and built a lot of models. I would be super meticulous on all the details, get to the very end, and ruin the final paint job--every time. This has stuck with me and almost every time I work on a project, I get to the end and often peter out, leaving it unfinished for long stretches (or sometimes forever). In hindsight, I just didn’t have the right tools or know the right techniques for finishing work. I’d spray paint when it was too humid, too cold, too windy, too dirty, using crappy paint or my really bad airbrush setup. I had a subscription to Fine Scale Modeler magazine and would constantly try higher-level techniques before I understood the basics which almost always ended poorly. In the end, I just thought I was really bad at painting and finishing and it subconsciously kept me from finishing or even starting many projects. I still haven’t fully painted the Stormtrooper Blaster I made five years ago!

    My still unfinished Stormtrooper Blaster - weathering would really help.

    I decided to not screw around with the Motivator and just finish it, but I wasn’t sure how. On the trip to San Francisco, I’d hope to do some painting and finishing with Adam but we ran out of time. I did pick his brain about it and we tossed a few options around. Early on, while I was still building the Motivator, Adam was seriously considering metal plating the whole thing and asked me to look into it. I called just about every place in NYC and surrounding area and didn’t have much luck. Coating plastic, or electroplating, is done all the time--it requires the plastic to be coated in a conductive paint, which the metal plating will adhere to. It seemed like most of the places that do this work usually plate metal and they either didn’t do plastic at all or were reluctant to do so and they didn’t really want to do small jobs such as the Motivator. In the end, Adam decided to move on and figure out a different approach.

    Samsung and Oculus VR Announce the Gear VR Innovator Edition HMD

    At this week's IFA conference in Berlin, Samsung and Oculus VR announced the long-rumored VR headset that we've been hearing about for months. It's called the Samsung Gear VR Innovator Edition, and will be an accessory to Samsung's new Galaxy Note 4 smartphones. As expected, you plug in Samsung's phone--which utilizes a massive 5.7-inch 1440p AMOLED display--into the headset for an untethered VR experience. Apparently, Oculus has been working with Samsung for over a year on the device, including a mobile SDK to optimize Android to run VR software. Because the mobile setup uses the sensors in the phone, users will experience wireless VR tracking in 3DOF instead of 6DOF, though Oculus and Samsung are promising a sub-20ms motions-to-photons latency (similar to that in the Oculus DK2). Oculus is also launching several VR software experiences with the Gear VR, including an Oculus Home interface, Oculus Cinema virtual movie theater, and Oculus 360 Videos and Photos viewer for panoramic content.

    This Gear VR is called the Innovator's Edition because it'll be an early-access beta SKU of the hardware for early adopters and developers, much like Oculus' own Development Kits. Samsung hasn't announced pricing for the Gear VR, but the Galaxy Note 4 is set to be released worldwide this October and the Gear VR add-on promised to be released this year. We'll be looking to get one of these devices to test, but this announcement says to us that Oculus won't settle for anything less than a 1440p display when the consumer edition of the Rift is ready.