Tested Builds: DIY Arcade Cabinet Kit, Part 4

Wiring up all the buttons of the Porta-Pi prove a little more difficult than we expected. Hot glue comes out for the assembly, and we discuss the microswitches used for arcade buttons. (Follow along the rest of the week by joining the Tested Premium member community!)

Comments (9)

9 thoughts on “Tested Builds: DIY Arcade Cabinet Kit, Part 4

  1. I love watching you guys fumble at this stuff….I say that in the kindest way! It reminds me (and I’m sure others) that this stuff can be done by anyone who wants to put their mind to it and hope you inspire someone to do just that! Great job guys!

    Brackets:)

  2. Great week of build – this looks like a fun one, but the Millennium Falcon and Anovos Stormtrooper has tapped the budget. Still can’t wait to see it in action tomorrow.

  3. I made a 4 player arcade cabinet that uses the original arcade game boards but allows you to play with any size LCD TV you want. The only problem is that the video converter that you buy does not do that great of a job and most games don’t work and the ones that do have poor color. I am going to switch it over to a mame cabinet and was going to use a raspberry pi but this sounds like it would be better. The paint job got scuffed when we moved so once it is up and running I am going to touch it up and add some custom graphics.

  4. I imported the original PSP when it launched in Japan… That’s when I learned about the X/O difference – it was weird. It’s not just Puyo Puyo – the general system UI on PS is O for confirm and X for cancel.

  5. In Japan the universal signs (on every poster and warning) X is no and O is yes. It’s the US and EUR versions that are backwards.

    On that note, as I’ve developed PS games I can tell you that the software is automatically mapped based on the region OS you have installed. So you don’t map (menu) commands to button X or O you map them to ‘confirm’ and ‘reject’ functions which automatically picks O or X in the OS.

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