What was your latest photo?

Created by stenchlord on Dec. 24, 2013, 5:33 a.m.
  • Damn, that is one sharp lens!

  • Yeah, I'm pretty happy with it. Got it for a good price too.

    RRP here in AU is $499AUD with average retail price around $450 but I picked this up for $360.

    It's a little too long for street photography IMO (90mm ff equiv) which is why I didn't get much eye contact today while shooting. I think the 17mm or the 25mm will make much better street lenses but will hold off on getting them at least for the time being.

  • OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
    • Camera Maker: OLYMPUS IMAGING CORP.
    • Camera Model: E-M1
    • Lens: OLYMPUS M.45mm F1.8
    • Image Date: 2014-03-25 14:39:33 +0000
    • Focal Length: 45mm (35mm equivalent: 90mm)
    • Aperture: f/2.5
    • Exposure Time: 0.0013 s (1/800)
    • ISO equiv: 200
    • Exposure Bias: none
    • Metering Mode: Matrix
    • Exposure: aperture priority (semi-auto)
    • White Balance: Manual
    • Flash Fired: No
    • Orientation: Normal
    • Color Space: sRGB
    • Software: Adobe Photoshop CS5 Windows

    And a second shot :)

    OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
    • Camera Maker: OLYMPUS IMAGING CORP.
    • Camera Model: E-M1
    • Lens: OLYMPUS M.45mm F1.8
    • Image Date: 2014-03-25 13:59:23 +0000
    • Focal Length: 45mm (35mm equivalent: 90mm)
    • Aperture: f/2.0
    • Exposure Time: 0.0013 s (1/800)
    • ISO equiv: 200
    • Exposure Bias: none
    • Metering Mode: Matrix
    • Exposure: aperture priority (semi-auto)
    • White Balance: Manual
    • Flash Fired: No
    • Orientation: Normal
    • Color Space: sRGB
    • Software: Adobe Photoshop CS5 Windows

    Unfortunately original jpegs are too large to upload directly to Tested.

    So here they are full res: Link 1 | Link 2

    Just right-click and open in a new page.

  • Testing out high-ISO noise and I have to say I'm super impressed. Despite the smaller sensor it's easily outperforming the APS-C sensors in the 50D and EOS M (same sensor as 650D).

    ISO 1250 - Full Resolution Image

    • Camera Maker: OLYMPUS IMAGING CORP.
    • Camera Model: E-M1
    • Lens: OLYMPUS M.45mm F1.8
    • Image Date: 2014-03-26
    • Focal Length: 45mm (35mm equivalent: 90mm)
    • Aperture: f/1.8
    • Exposure Time: 0.0080 s (1/125)
    • ISO equiv: 1250
    • Exposure Bias: +1.00 EV
    • Metering Mode: Spot
    • Exposure: aperture priority (semi-auto)
    • Exposure Mode: Manual
    • White Balance: Auto
    • Flash Fired: No
    • Color Space: sRGB
    • Software: Adobe Photoshop Lightroom 5.0 (Windows)

    ISO 2000 - Full Resolution Image

    • Camera Maker: OLYMPUS IMAGING CORP.
    • Camera Model: E-M1
    • Lens: OLYMPUS M.45mm F1.8
    • Image Date: 2014-03-26
    • Focal Length: 45mm (35mm equivalent: 90mm)
    • Aperture: f/1.8
    • Exposure Time: 0.0080 s (1/125)
    • ISO equiv: 2000
    • Exposure Bias: +1.00 EV
    • Metering Mode: Spot
    • Exposure: aperture priority (semi-auto)
    • Exposure Mode: Manual
    • White Balance: Auto
    • Flash Fired: No
    • Color Space: sRGB
    • Software: Adobe Photoshop Lightroom 5.0 (Windows)
  • OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
    • Camera Maker: OLYMPUS IMAGING CORP.
    • Camera Model: E-M1
    • Lens: OLYMPUS M.45mm F1.8
    • Image Date: 2014-03-27 21:43:15 +0000
    • Focal Length: 45mm (35mm equivalent: 90mm)
    • Aperture: f/1.8
    • Exposure Time: 0.067 s (1/15)
    • ISO equiv: 6400
    • Exposure Bias: none
    • Metering Mode: Center Weight
    • Exposure: aperture priority (semi-auto)
    • White Balance: Manual
    • Flash Fired: No
    • Orientation: Normal
    • Color Space: sRGB
    • Software: Adobe Photoshop CS5 Windows
  • OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
    • Camera Maker: OLYMPUS IMAGING CORP.
    • Camera Model: E-M1
    • Lens: OLYMPUS M.45mm F1.8
    • Image Date: 2014-03-27 21:47:10 +0000
    • Focal Length: 45mm (35mm equivalent: 90mm)
    • Aperture: f/1.8
    • Exposure Time: 0.033 s (1/30)
    • ISO equiv: 6400
    • Exposure Bias: none
    • Metering Mode: Center Weight
    • Exposure: aperture priority (semi-auto)
    • White Balance: Manual
    • Flash Fired: No
    • Orientation: Normal
    • Color Space: sRGB
    • Software: Adobe Photoshop CS5 Windows
  • Yikes, those ladies were practically sitting in the dark.

  • @mclaren777: Yeah :/ Cocktail bar lol.

  • OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
    • Camera Maker: OLYMPUS IMAGING CORP.
    • Camera Model: E-M1
    • Lens: OLYMPUS M.45mm F1.8
    • Image Date: 2014-03-27 21:27:49 +0000
    • Focal Length: 45mm (35mm equivalent: 90mm)
    • Aperture: f/1.8
    • Exposure Time: 0.017 s (1/60)
    • ISO equiv: 6400
    • Exposure Bias: none
    • Metering Mode: Matrix
    • Exposure: aperture priority (semi-auto)
    • White Balance: Auto
    • Flash Fired: No
    • Orientation: Normal
    • Color Space: sRGB
    • Software: Adobe Photoshop CS5 Windows
  • I'm visiting San Francisco this week.

    Settings:

    • Camera: Canon 6D
    • Lens: 24-105mm f/4 USM
    • Focal Length: 24mm
    • Aperture: f/22
    • Shutter: 20 seconds
    • ISO: 100
  • @mclaren777: Nice shot, windy? Looks like there was a bit of movement in the bridge that day. I take it you had a CPL on?

  • Got a cheap $50 backdrop. It's flimsy as hell, required me to shave some plastic back so I could extend them fully, the muslins probably need an iron to get out the more prominent wrinkles and I need to pick up some strobes or continuous lighting (haven't decided yet) but overall it should do the job for some fun portraits with friends. Did a test shot with one of my figurines.

    OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
    • Camera Maker: OLYMPUS IMAGING CORP.
    • Camera Model: E-M1
    • Lens: OLYMPUS M.45mm F1.8
    • Image Date: 2014-04-07 20:15:42 +0000
    • Focal Length: 45mm (35mm equivalent: 90mm)
    • Aperture: f/1.8
    • Exposure Time: 0.017 s (1/60)
    • ISO equiv: 200
    • Exposure Bias: none
    • Metering Mode: Matrix
    • Exposure: aperture priority (semi-auto)
    • White Balance: Auto
    • Flash Fired: Yes (Auto, return light detected)
    • Orientation: Normal
    • Color Space: sRGB
    • Software: Adobe Photoshop CS5 Windows
  • Will be nice when I pick up an Oly 60mm f/2.8 Macro. The 45mm f/1.8 is a nice lens but the 50cm minimum focusing distance can be a real pain sometimes when composing lol.

    OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
    • Camera Maker: OLYMPUS IMAGING CORP.
    • Camera Model: E-M1
    • Lens: OLYMPUS M.45mm F1.8
    • Image Date: 2014-04-08 15:43:16 +0000
    • Focal Length: 45mm (35mm equivalent: 90mm)
    • Aperture: f/3.5
    • Exposure Time: 0.017 s (1/60)
    • ISO equiv: 200
    • Exposure Bias: -1.00 EV
    • Metering Mode: Matrix
    • Exposure: aperture priority (semi-auto)
    • Exposure Mode: Manual
    • White Balance: Auto
    • Flash Fired: Yes (Auto, return light detected)
    • Orientation: Normal
    • Color Space: sRGB
    • Software: Adobe Photoshop CS5 Windows
  • @stenchlord: Nope, no wind that morning. The cable lines probably look blurry to you because A) there are multiple stands and B) diffraction at f/22 is causing my lens (with ND filter) to lose some resolving power at the edges.

    Also, a recommendation for macro photography: try shooting at f/8 or another similarly large value.

  • @mclaren777: Remember that m43 doubles focal length and aperture compared to FF.

    f/8 on my m43 is actually f/16 on FF.

    f/1.8 gives the same DoF as f/3.6 on FF, f/3.5 gives same DoF as f/7.

    With my 45/1.8 (90/3.6) portrait lens, peak performance is actually hit between f/2.8-f/5.6. At f/8 on this lens, diffraction becomes an issue.

    I was also only using the flash that gets bundled with the E-M1 which is pretty crap and why I had to shoot as wide open as I did (first shot was taken at 8pm so no ambient lighting, second shot was at 4pm so was able to stop down a little) and 1/60 was the slowest I was willing to go considering the 90mm focal length (and I was only willing to go that low cause of the in-body stabilisation) since I wasn't using a tripod.

  • Here is a Stacked HDR panorama from my trip to the Valley of Fire State Park this week. Made use of a circular Polariser to reduce surface reflections.

    Here is a link to a higher res version. So you can enjoy the detail a bit better. Original Image is 20k x 4k in res.

    http://fav.me/d7drvmi

    • Canon 5DMK3
    • Canon 24mm f1.4 L
    • Aperture f6.3
    • ISO 100-200
  • Foreground looks pretty good but need to fix up that sky.

  • Yeah I learned the valuable Lesson of don't shoot panoramas with a wideangle lense no matter how convient it is stick to something that is 75mm+, the banding in the sky is due to the compression of colors from the HDR process used

  • I think you're wrong about the sky, Juan.

    That was caused by your polarizer. When you change your angle to the sun, that's what happens.

    • Canon 7D
    • Canon 18-55 @ 18
    • Aperture f4
    • ISO 200
    • Exposure Time: 30s
  • @mclaren777: the banding in the sky or the barrel distortion that happens during stitching due to the image distortion due to the 24mm lens? Cause the original images are clean, The in camera HDR ends up with some banding from compression. I had it happen with a mix of images. I am gonna play around with lenses tomorrow and see if the problem exists still with my less barrel distorted lens (anything 70mm++). When I do the panorma assembly in photoshop either hand stitched or not there is a good deal of work that has to be done to get stuff matched up semi close and even then it seems to be off in the wrong directions.

  • @TsunamiJuan: The difference in exposures in the sky is definitely going to be due to your CPL as @mclaren777 has said.

    In regards to barrel distortion, it's not much of an issue as long as you do your lens correction before you stitch since you should have overlapping images (i.e. don't take images from frame edge to frame edge), this means that barrel distortion shouldn't be an issue if you've taken enough exposures.

    Also the issue with stitching not being directly matched up is cause of the movement of the lens, you likely had your camera on a tripod (connected via the camera) but when you move to recompose for the next shot, the lens moves meaning it's now shooting from a different position. The end of the lens barrel should to be fixated to a single spot (Tested interviewed a guy who was doing images for the insides of businesses for Google Maps, he explains the idea in that).

  • @oldmanlongstaff: Stop down a little further, f/8 would be a good place to start. Composition might look a little better with a straighter horizon and a less cluttered foreground, those street lamps have caused a little lens flare too and don't be afraid to stack multiple images at different exposures (i.e. Expose for the foreground, expose for sky/stars and then stack the images in photoshop).

    Can see what you were trying to achieve though :D

  • @stenchlord: I have to go back and look at the image set i threw that together from quickly I really just let it do its thing cause I didnt have time to go in and do it my normal OCD way, I think it just chose frames that where of +1 or -1 exposure in some of those places accounting for the more extreme light dark light, Since the original shots I adjusted the cpl as I moved the camera. But I do know what you mean about your suppose to adjust your aperture leafs to be directly over the piviot point of your tripod and rotation axis so that you minimize the parallax of things as you shoot.

    There was also a huge amount of atmospheric distortion/dust in the area around both of those hills due to high winds. As with anything its a spend time and learn situation. You can generally correct just about anything in post if you have enough shots, and time :D its just a matter of sitting down and doing it.

  • @TsunamiJuan said:

    But I do know what you mean about your suppose to adjust your aperture leafs to be directly over the piviot point of your tripod and rotation axis so that you minimize the parallax of things as you shoot.

    Thank you, was wracking my brain trying to think of a better way to word that lol and you did it for me :P

    And yeah, with enough time there's very little a skilled photoshopper couldn't fix but it's always nice when you get a shot that requires minimal amounts of work. Shot like that would looks great on a nice large canvas print though :D

  • @stenchlord: I am all about large format prints, i've been doing some medium format film lately as well for that reason. Once I get all the images cleaned up and ready I will probably do another Large format print, One of my clients wanted an extremely large format print to cover a wall in an entry way, so that might be where one goes.

  • @TsunamiJuan: Awesome stuff. I haven't gotten anything printed for a long time. Would love to capture something worthy of printing though :D

    When I first got into photography I got stuff printed regularly (once a fortnight) when I felt they were as good as I could currently do, kind of like a record of how much I had improved and my current skill level as well as me discovering which type of photography I enjoyed the most.

    Eventually though photography for me turned into an exercise that I could turn to whenever I was stressed and any images taken were only ever for me and no one else ever saw them (but I did lose pretty much all of them when a computer was stolen from my home which really saddens me). Enough so that I gave up photography for a few years.

    Currently, I'm not quite sure what photography is for me but for the most part I'd say it's fun. If I've got the time and am bored, photography is likely the first thing I'll turn to. Whether that be taking some photos of the cat around the apartment or going on a bushwalk up in the mountains or heading to a convention or fair. Whatever the case may be, I should really get some prints done again :)

  • OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
    • Camera Maker: OLYMPUS IMAGING CORP.
    • Camera Model: E-M1
    • Lens: OLYMPUS M.25mm F1.8
    • Image Date: 2014-04-13 10:29:15 +0000
    • Focal Length: 25mm (35mm equivalent: 50mm)
    • Aperture: f/2.0
    • Exposure Time: 0.0025 s (1/400)
    • ISO equiv: 200
    • Exposure Bias: +1.00 EV
    • Metering Mode: Matrix
    • Exposure: aperture priority (semi-auto)
    • Exposure Mode: Manual
    • White Balance: Auto
    • Flash Fired: No
    • Orientation: Normal
    • Color Space: sRGB
    • Software: Adobe Photoshop CS5 Windows
  • @stenchlord: I should probably make it clear, I don't do photography a business. But My clients for my business often ask to see what pictures I have taken recently and have requested prints of stuff. So I have been accommodating that. Which is a nice excuse at least in my mind to spend the extra time and money to do things right.

    Its mostly a great way for me to get some exercise, I will take my camera along with me when I go on walks and it kinda keeps me moving. Where I would other wise get bored and want to turn back. It is definitely a nice relaxing pursuit for me. Most of the time.


  • @stenchlord: Thanks for the advice, I'll use it the next time I do night shots.