Thanks to Dremel's support and use of their 3D Idea Builder printer and a host of great tools, we were able to build a working, 3D printed, Ghostbusters Ghost Trap. Last time, we took a look at the modeling and design of my 3D printed Ghost Trap, this time we're going to delve inside and see how it works. As we were developing the Ghost Trap project I proposed making a fully functional trap that could open and close with lights and sound. While I am handy with a soldering iron and can generally pick out components for a project, I am no electronics expert and have no experience programming microcontrollers. It's something that has been on my to-do list for a long time so originally I planned on learning the Arduino as part of the Trap build.
While designing the first iteration of the door mechanism, the amount of work I had to do started to sink in - fully model the trap and pedal, make sure it all fits together while making room for electronics, source hardware and obscure parts, design a door mechanism, figure out a system for smoke, sound, lights and get all the files ready for public release. Oh, and learn how to program the Arduino and make it run the whole thing. I was in over my head and simply did not have the time to do everything and it really bugged me. I like knowing how to do things and I wanted to learn how to program the Arduino, but I had to be realistic about it. Luckily, Jeremy Williams came to the rescue with his electronics and programming expertise--he's tackled zombies before, so ghosts were not a problem.
I compiled a wish list of functions for Jeremy consisting of a 'must-have' and 'dream' list. At the very least the trap had to open, lights come on, sound effects play. The ultimate dream-build was open and close, lights, sound, smoke and vibration - all controlled via the foot pedal. It took a while for me to communicate to Jeremy what I did and did not know, so he could figure out exactly how much he had to do. I knew I could physically wire everything up but I didn't know how it should be wired. Jeremy and I sat down with all the components, figured out where we needed resistors, how much power we needed, what should get hooked up where, etc. and then it was my turn to wire as much as possible. A habit I've picked up from 3D modeling is to label everything and organize it, so you can turn a scene over to someone else and they can navigate the project with relative ease. I kept this in mind when wiring the trap and made sure to label all the wires and dress them so I could deliver a tidy setup to Jeremy.