A new short and sweet shop tip from Frank Ippolito! Here's a simple way to keep your digital scales clean when you use it to measure out batches of resin.
A new short and sweet shop tip from Frank Ippolito! Here's a simple way to keep your digital scales clean when you use it to measure out batches of resin.
It's definitely true that you get what you pay for. But as a noob, it's often difficult to recognize or understand what you sacrifice with a bottom-end model. So let's take a look at one of the least expensive 1/10-scale hobby-grade RC trucks available, the ECX Amp, and analyze the pros and cons of pinching pennies.
The Amp is a 2-wheel-drive truck that comes pre-built or as a kit. Both versions are priced at $130 and include a radio, battery, and charger. You only need to add 4 AA batteries for the transmitter. The kit version also requires paint for the clear plastic body. Obviously, the pre-built version will get you on the road sooner. But the kit version will jump start your knowledge of how RC cars work. Learn now or learn later. The choice is yours.
I highly recommend choosing a 1/10-scale model for your first RC car. They are large enough that the components are easy to work on. At the same time, these cars and trucks are not so large that replacement parts and hop-ups are prohibitively expensive.
Like most modern off-road models, the Amp has a molded plastic chassis, long suspension arms and oil-filled coil-over shocks. I've crashed the truck into a few immovable objects and it has proven to be tough.
The transmission has a gear-type differential. Many racing cars and trucks use limited-slip differentials. While limited-slip diffs allow tuning options, they are also more difficult to assemble and require maintenance. Gear differentials are very tough and work well in most situations. They're definitely the best bet for newcomers.
We pay homage to Christopher Nolan's Interstellar by building model kits based on the practical miniatures used in the film's production. Frank and Norm each make a Ranger spaceship, showing painting, masking, and weathering for this scale model.
Sean and Norm discuss the effects of negative air pressure compared with positive air pressure in PC cooling, and test different configurations for maximizing airflow through a computer case. The high-speed camera footage doesn't lie!
One of our favorite aritsts is Melita Curphy--aka Miss Monster--who sculpts beautiful figures and masks with a distinct techno-organic style. We're thrilled to paint two of her masks on this episode of This Old FX Shop!
Our very own Frank Ippolito shows you how to make simple silicone molds to cast and paint foam replicas of props like shop tools! We go over the moldmaking process and show how self-skinning expanding foam can make great-looking stunt props for your projects.
This week's tip from Frank Ippolito is about actual tips--for spray cans, that is. Frank shows Norm how he uses different nozzle caps for different effects when spray painting props and signage in his shop. Whether you run a large workshop or just work out of your garage, we want to hear your shop tips that you rely on in your projects. Post them in the comments below!
Jeremy walks you through the RetroPi software setup for the Pi Score MAME arcade cabinet so you can get yours up and running. Post your software questions in the comments below! (And download the print files here!)
For those of your building your own Pi Score arcade cabinets, you're going to want to watch this assembly guide showing how all the 3d printed pieces fit together with the electronics. (Download the files here!)
Getting into the RC hobby has never been easier or more affordable than it is right now. There are tons of high-quality, beginner-oriented RC vehicles to choose from. However, there are also a lot of sub-par products as well. Even with the right equipment, learning the ropes can sometimes be a challenge. Making a few missteps as you're just getting into the hobby can ruin your enthusiasm and sour the fun. Here are a few tips to help potential RC hobbyists make a positive start.
Whether you are interested in aircraft, cars, or boats there is probably someone in your area who is already up to speed and knowledgeable. Seek out RC clubs, racetracks, or hobby shops. You are bound to find folks who are willing to help you get started.
If flying is your goal, attend a club meeting even before you buy any RC equipment. Most RC clubs have dedicated instructors who teach newcomers how to fly. The majority of aspiring pilots who try learning all by themselves either fail completely, or destroy many models on their path to competency. Also, an instructor can help you choose the right equipment. Some clubs even have models set aside just for training.
If you're more interested in surface vehicles (cars, trucks, boats), find out what models experienced hobbyists in your area are using and recommend. It can be a big boost to have local experts who are familiar with your specific equipment. You're bound to receive helpful advice for setup, maintenance, and repairs.
If you live in a rural area, you may have trouble finding other modelers nearby. There are numerous online forums such as RC Groups and RC Universe that can sometimes partially fill that void. Just be wary of advice received online. There are a lot of self-proclaimed experts who give out bogus advice. With a little research, the true experts are often easy to identify.
The bottom line is that RC is as much a social activity as anything else. Finding other modelers with similar interests makes the RC hobby more enjoyable and also speeds up your learning curve.
Frank shares some of his favorite blades and techniques for cutting foam for prop and costume fabrication. Whether you run a large workshop or just work out of your garage, we want to hear your shop tips that you rely on in your projects. Post them in the comments below!
Frank shows us his workflow and tips for keeping his paint brushes clean after using them, including what cleaners to use and how different types of brushes can be treated differently. Whether you run a large workshop or just work out of your garage, we want to hear your shop tips that you rely on in your projects. Post them in the comments below!
Using Norm's ears as a model, Frank teaches us how to get familiar with the forms of human anatomy by sculpting at larger than life scale. Follow along in this sculpting exercise!
Frank and Norm each take on painting an original garage kit by Punished Props! Frank guides us through giving these resin robots different finishes to make them look like different types of metal.
It's a new year, so maybe that means it's time for a new phone too? If you've got some cash left over after the holiday season and are looking for a new Android phone, you don't want to drop that cash on something you'll end up hating. That's where Tested comes in. We're here to give you the lay of the land so you can get the best Android phone. This month, the selection of phones is stable, but the software situation is changing.
If you're going through your carrier, you can take advantage of all the payment plans and other enticements, so it's an understandable option. That does limit your phone choices a bit, and the device will usually be locked (or at least band-customized) for that carrier. There are a few solid options, the most notable of which is the Galaxy S7. Although, the LG V20 isn't a bad choice, and the Pixel is technically available on Verizon. I'll get to that later, but first, the GS7.
The Galaxy S7 has a number of good selling points that I'll get into in detail, but probably the best are the overall design and the display. The GS7 (and especially the Edge) are solid phones. The front and back are both Gorilla Glass, but it feels so well put together. It's IP68 water resistant, and feels very dense in the hand. It's a little heavier than you probably expect when you pick it up, but it has a slight curve, making it comfortable to hold.
The Galaxy S7 and S7 Edge have Super AMOLED panels at 2560x1440 resolution. The GS7 is 5.1-inches, while the Edge variant has a larger 5.5-inch display. These are still the best panels you can get on a smartphone, though the gap is closing. They're bright, have perfect viewing angles, and the colors are very accurate. Then there's the Edge with a screen that curves down on both the left and right sides. It looks cool, but it's actually less comfortable to hold. The Pixel XL's display is almost as good, but samsung still wins on this front.
This phone is slightly thicker than Samsung's 2015 flagship, allowing for a reasonably large battery (relative to size). The GS7 has a 3000mAh battery and the GS7 Edge has 3600mA. In both cases, these cells perform very well. Both phones support Quick Charge 2.0 and wireless charging, but they have microUSB ports. The GS7 has held up well in terms of performance. It was never a blazing-fast phone, but it's fast enough. The Snapdragon 820 has shown up in a lot of phones, but Samsung lowered the clock speed a bit to make the device more power efficient. That's why the battery is so impressive. There are no issues with multitasking thanks to the 4GB of RAM, though.
Like many people, my first lessons in aerodynamics came from creating enormous fleets of paper airplanes. Most of my pulp-based flyers were constructed from sheets of folded notebook paper. My creativity soared once I realized that I could also make great-flying airplanes using index cards and other forms of cardstock. In many ways, these cardstock airplanes were simpler to make and more robust than my paper models. More importantly, the rigidity of cardstock released my airplane designs from the straight-lined, angular constraints of folded paper. I could shape my cardstock airplanes however I wanted.
Not many of us keep a supply of cardstock handy. But, that all changes at Christmastime. All of those holiday cards that you receive can be repurposed as glittery, Santa-adorned living room flyers. Creating these airplanes is easy and a lot of fun.
Most of the Christmas cards that I currently have around my house measure just a shade under 5"x7" (127mm x 178mm). We'll call them 5x7 just to keep things simple. Some are folding cards, while others have only one panel. We'll be using a single 5x7 panel for each model. So if you're using a folding card, cut it in half along the fold. Now you can make two airplanes!
The size of the card(s) you use for this project actually isn't that important. The concept can be scaled up or down with little effect. The same is true of the weight of the cardstock as well. Just use whatever you have on hand. The one notable exception is cards printed on photo paper. I have yet to make a decent flying airplane with that heavy, floppy stuff.
In addition to a card or two, you will also need a ruler, something to draw with, and a small amount of modeling clay.
Soldering is a very handy skill to have in the RC hobby. Sooner or later, you'll find yourself with a need to solder something. This is especially true if you're into electric-powered vehicles. One of the more common (and dangerous) of these jobs is soldering power connectors to a battery. There is a lot of potential energy at hand. A poorly executed approach can ruin your battery, start a fire, or even injure you. Despite the risks, this job is nothing to be afraid of as long as you know what to watch for. Today, I'll illustrate how I mitigate the risks of soldering battery connectors using simple tools and a conservative approach.
Not For Beginners
To be clear, this article does not cover the basics of electrical soldering. You'll want to be confident in your soldering skills before working with batteries. There are lots of online tutorials that can help you get to that point.
The biggest danger when soldering battery connectors is accidentally creating an electrical short. Of all the different batteries used by hobbyists, LiPo cells pose the biggest risk when shorted. They are very energy-dense and also intolerant of abuse. Even a brief, incidental short can cause a big reaction and inflict permanent damage. Just brushing a metal tool across two exposed contacts is all it takes. Most of the effort involved with soldering batteries is dedicated to preventing that dreaded short. The actual soldering task is usually no big deal.
In my example, I will be attaching a Hobbico Star Plug to a 2-cell LiPo. The Star Plug is currently my preferred connector. It is compatible with the Deans Ultra Plugs that I have on all of my legacy hardware, but the Star Plug has a large, textured gripping surface that makes it easier to manipulate with cold or sweaty hands. The Star Plug requires extra attention when soldering, so it's a good example to use here.
Many of the sites I use for multi-rotor flying have very rough ground. This sometimes makes it tough to find a suitable spot for launching and landing. Even if I do uncover a patch of level ground, I'm sure to kick up a cloud of dusty West Texas topsoil as soon as the props start spinning. After years of improvising with cardboard boxes, beach towels, or whatever else I happened to have on hand, I finally decided to build a proper landing pad.
I looked for commercial options before deciding to build my own pad. There are numerous landing pads on the market, but none seem to fit my needs. First of all, most of them are smaller than I wanted. If I used a circular pad of just 16" (406mm) or 20" (508mm) diameter I would still create dust storms when I flew my larger ships. It also seems that most of the commercial offerings are not rigid. This would not help me deal with rough, uneven ground.
Once I had decided to build my own landing pad, I considered what material options I had available. I didn't really want to use any type of wood because I felt that the pad should be totally weatherproof. The solution presented itself during a recent trip to my local Tractor Supply Company store. One of the sale items stacked out front was a .5" (13mm)-thick rubber mat measuring 4' (1219mm) by 3' (914mm). I didn't want a pad quite that big, but I figured I could cut it down to the size I needed. For only $20, it was worth a shot.
When I picked up the mat, I wasn't quite ready for its nearly 40-pound weight. This is a substantial piece of recycled rubber! I just hoped that it wouldn't be too heavy to handle once I had cut it to size. Once I got the mat home, I decided that I could make three separate landing pads with it. I made one larger pad measuring 3' (914mm) by 2' (610mm), and two 2' (610mm) by 1.5' (457mm) pads. The large pad would be useful for my 350mm-class and larger multi-rotors at particularly rough sites. The small pads were intended for my racing quads, or even the larger ships when I fly from relatively smooth areas.
I made the two cuts using a regular utility knife. It took numerous swipes of the blade to cut all the way through the thick rubber, but it was not difficult to do. If you're a minimalist, you could actually be done with the project at this point. Turning a big mat into little mats is not very challenging or time consuming. I decided, however, that I wanted to personalize my new landing pads.
With all the design work done for my Custom Cutaway Lightsaber, it's time to 3D print everything on the Form 2 SLA printer. We were lucky enough to get a pre-production Form 2 from FormLabs and had been printing a ton of projects before the official release. We were very pleased with all the prints as Formlabs had upgraded all of the items (and then some) on my wishlist from my time with the Form 1+. The Form 2 had been living up to my expectations but I designed some of the lightsaber parts to torture test it further.
While the Form 2 was more than capable of printing out an entire half of the saber in one piece, I broke it up into many parts for a few reasons. First, I wanted to show off various resins and designed the saber to make use of the black, grey, clear and flexible materials, most of which had just had formulation upgrades. Second, I wanted to see what the tolerances and fit quality were like for assemblies. Third, as we have talked about before, prints tend to look better when all the parts aren't globbed together but instead printed as individual pieces. Plus, the quality of parts can sometimes be affected by orientation and printing everything as one piece is not always optimal.
Once modeling was finished, the next step was to export all the parts as STL files - generally the standard for 3D printing. The grips and pommel were exported as a whole piece and then cut in half using Netfabb - this was a case of using the right tool for the job. Netfabb (recently acquired by Autodesk) is also my goto program for mesh repair which is a vital part of 3D printing. Any holes, flipped polygon faces or other irregularities can cause a print to fail. Formlabs PreForm software has Netfabb repair functionality built in and will warn you and offer to fix possible issues upon model import.
This is a plastic helmet. Urethane plastic, to be exact. It's a resin kit that I got from my pal Allen a while back and I was chomping at the bit to get it painted, but really wanted to make sure that it didn't end up looking like that original plastic. I wanted it to look like an old, weather beaten hunk of battle scarred steel. I wanted it to look like real metal.
I've covered metallic finishes here on Tested before, but this was a very different beast. It couldn't look chromed and shiny like Rey's blaster. It needed to be dark, textured, rusty, and grimy. When painting something that needs to be metallic, there tends to be an impulse to reach for a "metal" can of spray paint cover every square inch of plastic in a silver metallic sheen. This is the easy way to do it, but if you look at a piece of bare steel, something that spends its days exposed to the elements like a manhole cover, you'll note that there isn't a single bit of shiny silver anywhere on it. This is why I started with a dark color.
The kit was already primed, so all I needed to do was hit it with the base color. In this instance I used a rattle can of nice bronze paint.
Once this base coat of dull, dark paint dried, then the real fun began. I started with some silver acrylic paint. Yes I said earlier that we wouldn't see any silver spots, but don't worry, I was incredibly subtle with my use of this bright paint. My application was a slightly heavy drybrush. I applied just a little bit of silver paint to a ratty old brush, wiped most of that paint off on a paper towel, and then "scratched" the bronze base coat with the brush.