@stenchlord: Nerf is awesome, while i don't mod or really play with others, i do like to paint them, i have quite a large collection now as a result. If you want to see nerf guns that really fly you should get yourself a Nerf Vertex, my recommendation is the lumitron cause glow in the dark discs are awesome.
Another really fun Nerf gun is the Barrel break, just has a really fun loading action. and decent side arm. as is the Nerf Deploy.
But the best blaster from my experience is the Alpha Strike (the non-elite version as it has a drum mag rather than a straight mag).
@Sonowake: Those are some wicked paint jobs. Might I ask what your process is? Do you sand them before laying down your base/undercoat? What paints do you use?
I have a Raider and Firestrike casing/shell to practice on. I've sanded them both down and used black Dupli-Color Vinyl and Fabic spray on them, seems to have done an awesome job. A friend who used to be pretty into Warhammer has given me all his Citadel paints as well so I have a decent colour range to start with.
As for the Vortex range, I prefer the darts. I find the discs to be too slow.
EDIT: Oh and I have some Rustoleum 2x Matte Clear Coat which I'll be using to finish off the blasters.
@Rallier: I'm pretty sure they're modded. They sound like they're spinning way faster than a stock gun. But yeah, the electric ones make a loud whirring sound.
Worth linking to a couple of the articles Tested did last year on painting/modding Nerf guns. :)
I have this evil desire to grab the air compressor and mod the crap out of a nerf weapon for the sheer reasoning of Overkill is fun :)
Thanks for sharing btw :)
@Rallier: As @Falcon mentioned, they are modded.
Stock the Stryfe runs 4 x AA batteries. Most people use standard Alkaline batts (Energizer/Duracell) which run at 1.5v each giving a total of 6v. Modders use Ultrafire/Trustfire 14500 Li-ion batteries which run at 3.6-4.2v each, in the video I believe they were running non-protected Trustfire batts which would give around 16v. Reasoning for using these batteries are pretty obvious, they definitely make the flywheels spin faster but more so than that, the reason I use them is cause they spin the flywheels up faster. If I were to be using standard Alkaline batteries, I'd need to wait a second or two before being able to fire whereas with the Li-ion's I don't.
The Li-ion batteries come in plenty of different sizes, they're actually the batteries used in many laptop batteries (usually you'll have 3 or 4 of them in the casing). Non-protected ones are the ones modders use, once fully charged, they'll discharge at 4.2v but quickly that'll diminish to around 4v, after a bit of use they drop even further. Protected batteries will usually not work in Nerf blasters (as I found out myself through trial and error lol) due to how the blasters will try to use up all available current and the protection board on the battery will cut supply.
Unfortunately many of the current flywheel blasters have a chip in them called a thermistor, this is a safety feature installed that will cut power once it reaches a certain temperature. If your blaster still has this chip installed you will not be able to use Li-ion batteries in it. This needs to be removed and wires re-connected before venturing into Li-ion cells.
The other thing to note though is that this will decrease the life of the motors. Now if you're running 12v in most flywheel blasters that accept 4 or more batteries then this will be fine but if you're running 16v like in the video, I'd not expect them to last very long (my tests showed that after a couple hundred continuous shots the motors had already started to smell like they were burning).
If anyone else is interested in something and wants to know don't hesitate to ask, if I can answer it I will.
Had some free time tonight so decided to further mod my Stampede. I already had an "OMW 6kg Spring Upgrade" installed and 4xTrustfire (14500's in AA>D converters) batteries installed for 16v which was pretty sweet (shoots around 5 rounds per second) but wanted a bit more range out of it so went ahead and drilled out the air restrictor as well as teflon taping under the O-ring for a better seal and am now getting awesome range for a Stampede.
Stampede shoots around 6-9m (20-30ft) with the 2.5kg stock spring and 2-3 rounds per second at stock 9v.
Upgrading to the 6kg spring increased ranges to around 13m (45ft), removing the air restrictor increased that further to 16m (55ft).
**Note that a spring upgrade requires a voltage increase. At stock voltage the blaster cannot prime a 6kg spring.
I tried running 20v and had issues of the blaster jamming. I also tried running 16v with the stock spring and ran into the same issues, seems like the clips/magazines can't supply the darts faster enough.
@stenchlord: The Discs are a preference, personally i like bullets too but it's nice to have a mag loaded and not have to worry about them deforming.
For painting i did a guide here, i sanded the coating off by hand, i didn't use a base coat and i used citadel paints left over from my brothers warhammer days.
@Sonowake: I keep my darts in a separate bag, have over 500 streamlines so always got plenty of ammo on hand.
As for magazines my preference goes towards the 18 round straight magazines cause they're easy to carry but I've got an arrangement of them.
I have 1x35 drum (Raider), 1x25 drum (Rampage), 1x12 mag (EAT), 7x18 mags (2xStampedes & Rapidstrike) & 7x6 mags (various blasters). I only ever carry the 7x18 mags around with me though.
Since my Rapidstrike is my newest blaster I haven't played with it too much. Besides the trustfire battery additions and lock removals the blaster is stock (resistors on motor are still installed) so I decided to test how long they would last under continuous use. 3x14500 Trustfires = ~12v which is double stock so loaded all my magazines and set to work firing them off, was able to shoot off 234 darts before the motors cut out. Left it for an hour and ran the test again and fired off 237 darts.
Awesome stuff, in a game with multiple people where you're not firing off a continuous stream of darts and where the motors will get a chance to cool or sit idle every couple minutes, I'd say the motors will likely not cut out on you. Still I think it's best utilised in a 1v1 indoor game where you're likely to be firing off as many darts as you have because the 6 darts per second rate of fire is hard to ignore at close quarters, at longer ranges you're likely to fire off some darts by accident resulting in wasted ammo.
This arrived today :D
Not really necessary for Nerf darts but it's definitely fun to wear :D
Basic mods for the Nerf Stryfe:
Then just hot glued down wires (not really necessary but I like to do it anyway).
You can also remove the resistors on the motor itself but it doesn't make a large enough difference to warrant the trouble unless you just like tinkering. Removing the thermistor is a must since it allows you to use higher voltage li-ion batteries which will make the largest difference to your performance.