I have been very lucky to have worked for some great clients - I will dig out some more of my other work at some point and share it here.
@JakeLinzey Awesome, Love the paint job on it.
"Kill all Humans!!!!" - Bender "Bending" Rodriguez
This guy is now patrolling my desk , keeping my specimens free from stealthy, thieving hands. I'm still working on the video...will probably make it into an old advert.
It started life as a Hexabug Spider toy that looked like this...
After a lot of painting, and modding with brassy bits and wood it now looks like this...
This project has been done for a while, but I finally shot some footage of it moving (just with my phone so it isn't brilliant).
Here it is...
@ngreusel: nice flatbow! do you have a photo at full draw, to get a better look at the tiller? (and maybe a front view, to see limb silhouette?)
for future work, i’d recommend a few small things:
1) round off the edges of the limbs that are facing the bow’s back (the outside, tension side). not much, just a 2–3mm radius. even with a very straight-grained board, you get grain running off the limb edges the moment you start tapering them in width. if you are a tad unlucky (a growth ring with a bit more early wood, overstrain due to uneven tiller, etc), you could end up having enough load concentrated on one of those hard back edges to split the limb apart. smoothing the edges reduces the focussed load a little, making the bow safer. (n.b.: i did the same thing as you did on my first bow and it didn’t break either. depending on wood species, quality & bow layout, it may just put you one more step towards being on the safe side to not wreck a bow, though)
2) most wood species are much stronger in tension than they are under compression, so you can make your limbs a little less wide on the back than they are on the belly. with a rectangular cross section, you are making the back much stronger than the belly, so the limb’s reaction to heavy strain is crushed wood cells on the belly and increased permanent curvature, not rupture of wood cells on the back and an exploding bow. to a certain degree, that is a good thing because a bow that just takes set is safer than a bow that explodes at full draw. but with a wide back, you are needlessly increasing the compression load on the belly AND you are putting mass on the limbs where it doesn’t contribute to good cast. (historical note: the english longbow is noted for its characteristic 'D' cross section with a flat back and narrower, rounded belly. this is probably a combination of using yew wood, which is its very own kind of beast, and a safeguard against bows exploding in use. even though, real medieval livery bows usually didn’t have that pronounced 'D' near as much as victorian lawn archery bows, the later aristocratic taming of an actual weapon of war. going back even further, there were similarly shaped yew bows in the neolithic that have a properly narrowed back and a flat, wide belly, like a reversed english longbow 'D' cross-section. these most likely had better cast per pound of draw weight, but were built at much less extreme draw weights than the english 100+ lbs. the pronounced 'D' cross-section isn’t the pinnacle of bow design, but the child of a very specific historical & cultural niche.)
3) your tip overlays look very nice, but the shearing force on the glue line is a weak point. i’m not saying to not use overlays, but be mindful of adding another point that can fail. you can reduce the risk by not glueing them on the flat bow back like you did, but grinding the glue surface at a shallow angle to the back. that way, the string presses down on the tip at a somewhat better angle. note that you can put perfectly satisfactory side nocks in limb tips that are ~1cm wide. it’s always surprising how little wood it takes. using overlays for the nocks, you can reduce tip width to the width of a normal wooden pencil, saving weight. on wider limb tips, they are only cosmetic.
4) i am aware that having or not having an arrow shelf is a very personal matter, but i just have to type out this quote: "shelves are for keeping books on." (rod parsons)
anyway, very good to see a fellow bowyer here :) good luck on the next bow!
@gekitsu: Thanks! Sorry, I don't have a pic of full draw; and the reason I'm making a new bow is that this one just developed a crack, so unfortunately there will never be a full draw pic now. A few guys at the range said the tiller looked quite nice, though. It survived probably around 2,000 shots, and I'm still quite proud of it for my first bow.
The limb silhouette is a straight pyramid shape.
It's hard to see in the pictures because of the paper backing, but there is about a 3mm radius smoothing the sides into the back.
I was a little concerned about the glued-on tip overlays, too, but I never had any problems with them.
I'm currently rough-shaping an Osage Orange stave for my new bow. I got it from my a tree my uncle cut down on his farm. It's far from perfectly straight, but I think I can make it work, maybe with the help of a little heat bending. It's a completely different animal than a board bow, though. Tillering seems like it will be a lot trickier than with a nice straight board.
This past weekend I assembled my DJI F450 quadcopter with a Naza Lite. I found it pretty simple to assemble, the toughest part was routing all the wires. The layout of the connections on the Naza do not line up with where those components physically are on the quad, which means the wires are all jumbled up. I bunched up all the jumper wires and taped them to the top of the Naza, hopefully this wont cause some interference or something.
I'm still waiting for my radio and batteries to come so I can finally get this thing off the ground... and likely instantly smash into a tree or rock.
@ngreusel: you can say that again! i’m just sitting on my first non-board bow as well (a rowan sapling on its way to a hopefully 60–70-ish lbs @ 30″ D-bow) and it was really disconcerting at first, how you can’t just draw lines with a long straightedge and work from there. it’s been working quite well so far, though. a calliper satisfied my numbers brain until the thing started bending, and from there on, i didn’t really miss the exact layout anymore. compared to working on a board with flat sides everywhere, i am really glad i built myself a shave horse in the mean time. it’s so much more convenient for holding irregularly shaped workpieces.
i had my first experiences with steam bending on this one, too.
sorry to hear about the crack – but if the first bow doesn’t break before it’s finished, i call that a roaring success. :D
I "oldified" the footage I took of my Hexbug mod.
Scrumbot Labs brings you The Desktop Sentinel.
So last year, after seeing all of Adam's costume builds, I finally decided to take the plunge and make my own semi-elaborate halloween costume; Gordon Freeman's HEV suit from Half Life 2. Ended up documenting most of the process and I think it turned out pretty decent for a first time build and whole lot of foam sheets and hot glue.
The whole process from beginning to end is here http://sheehanraziel.wordpress.com/ . Ended up learning a lot...hot glue melts foam...velcro isn't always the best choice. The amount of flexibility you lose just by a few inches of foam pushing into joints is insane. Will definitely have a much more efficient build process next time.
@firebird: Thanks! I hope you enjoyed the Notes From a Train stuff, writing them certainly made the daily public transport grind go faster :)
One of my current projects at my friends workshop which i've just gained access too!
It's an Elmer 75 Steam Engine, still very much just getting off the ground. Built entirely from stock, no castings!
Milling out the base from mild steel.
Brand new to the site. So much awesome out here!
Here is my recent build - a steampunk/western inspired cell phone charging tower for 12 to be used in the Alternate History Track at Dragon Con. There were 3-n-1 adapters sticking out of each hole to accommodate most cell phone types.
@spacebovine: That little bot looks fantastic - Great little vid and perfect music too!
@shereekachu: Neat idea - Woodworking seems to be really good on it too!
The light in the pic makes it a bit hard to tell, but perhaps some more weathering might add a dimension? - There's some great vids with Adam on weathering on Tested to be inspired by.
I bought a roll of flexible magnet off amazon for turning stickers into magnets. I've only made one so far just to see how it went. I used a Viper fins sticker since it was square and I have a bunch of them (I admit I used to steal them out of the boxes when I was younger). I have a bunch of other stickers I want to do this with, but most of them have curves and I left my cutting mat at work so I'll do those later. The magnet is decently strong, and it ended up that it fits perfectly over the two unused drive bays on my Desktop PC. Thanks for the suggestion @Bryguyver. Here is what I used if anyone is interested.
A resin cast of an Enfield Mk1 Rifle I painted up for the local WW1 Society recently!
A side table made from an old trouser press and stool:
I also just completed my version of Luke's lightsaber from Star Wars (ANH) using the same parts used in the movie (one minor detail is incorrect):
So two years ago as my now wife and I were planning our wedding she asked what I thought about a guest book. I personally have thought guest books were kind of a waste of space and being a hobby woodworker I said well how about a piece of furniture. Well 40 hours of shop time later I came up with this. A Walnut and Maple bench finished with 4 coats of Waterlox. Our guests signed in bronze metallic permanent marker and it shows up well and though over time will probably fade with use it sits in our entry way and welcomes guests and allows us to randomly read the kind words our guests left us.
Orange and white toy version of Han Solo's DL44 Blaster that I filled, drilled, custom painted and distressed using dry brushing and water brushes. Built a stand too.
A full scale replica of a Deinonychus skull I carved from white cedar a few months ago.
Wow some people have some awesome stuff on here.
I'm pretty sure this falls under "making". I hand load my own ammunition for target shooting and hunting. For those of you that don't know how it's done, this is what happens:
Why? Well it's cheaper than buying ammo from the store. But the main reason is it allows me to fine tune an exact combination of variables (powder type, powder load, projectile type and weight, projectile seating depth etc etc) to match the exact gun it's used in, meaning superb accuracy. It's all about consistency.
I've also just about finish my little boat (well... dinghy) that I've been building. It's further along than this picture suggests (it's fully sealed and has actually been used a few times). I just need to add a skeg to it and finish hand making some oars.
I used what's called the "stitch and glue" method of boat building, which basically means you stitch the panels together using copper wire, then you fibreglass the joins.
Not bad for someone who's never built a boat before, or done any fibreglassing before huh? :P
Just completed my WW1 era British trench periscope!
Never again will I have to fear getting my head shot off as I attempt to peer over things!