@Rallier: No, I did not. But that's not a bad idea at all, maybe i'll try that some day, sounds like a fun challenge
Couldn’t find pics of anything good I’ve done with green stuff, but here are a couple of projects with mostly styrene.
They are scratch built 1/144 scale biplanes made as gaming miniatures for a game called Wings of Glory (used to be Wings of War). For scale of pics, the cutting board grid is ~6 mm.
The extra clutter on the parts pic on this on this one is to handle rigging during painting.
This is an earlier build - The little pile in the background is of discarded prototypes.
@spacebovine: Your excellent builds (and all the stuff on Tested in general) has reawakened miniature building bug in me. So I think I have to start working on some creatures and/or props. Once I’ve settled on a good theme and scale…
@behre: That NIEUPORT is a beautiful little thing. I really like your choices of where to simplify and where to keep the detail.
Glad to hear you are going to do some more miniature work...I love the feel you get from a perfect little thing that takes up such a small amount of space in the universe :)
First image is of unpainted Sculpey...thats an Aussie coin for scale :)...
Those are really nice, you should cast them and make them as wearable pins.
@animek02: that's a nice idea. I tend to make sure that anything I make that is someone else's IP stays as a one off, but I am planning on doing a range of steampunk and fantasy weapons at a similar scale and level of stylization and I'll definitely keep you idea in mind for them!
Well, finally got round to finishing my OneTesla Tesla Coil. And uhh... WOW.
Here's a longbow I made from red oak and black walnut. I assembled the arrows, but didn't make them from scratch. This is actually from a couple years ago. I'm just now starting on making my second bow. Hopefully it'll be done in a few weeks!
So I was lucky enough to be involved in the making of this bad boy, It was built for muse by Cirque Bijou via Kenetika
Hes got a birch ply body all painted to look like steel - he is set onto a platform driven by 2 wheelchair motors and the legs sync up with the movement.
Tony and Mike were the leaders on this project and did the brunt of the work - i was just lucky to be along for the ride.
I am pretty lucky as my full time job is to make awesome things - I will put a link to my Facebook at the bottom - i make lots of puppets and scenery and models.
And a wee video of him being a rock star (you tube - no idea who took the video)
So I was lucky enough to be involved in the making of this bad boy,
@ngreusel: What a beautiful looking piece of kit that is, great result!
@JakeLinzey: Amazing to see something like this at such a massive size. It is interesting that it still retains some of its "cuteness" while gaining a large portion of "I will exterminate you...your family...and your house".
I have been very lucky to have worked for some great clients - I will dig out some more of my other work at some point and share it here.
@JakeLinzey Awesome, Love the paint job on it.
"Kill all Humans!!!!" - Bender "Bending" Rodriguez
This guy is now patrolling my desk , keeping my specimens free from stealthy, thieving hands. I'm still working on the video...will probably make it into an old advert.
It started life as a Hexabug Spider toy that looked like this...
After a lot of painting, and modding with brassy bits and wood it now looks like this...
This project has been done for a while, but I finally shot some footage of it moving (just with my phone so it isn't brilliant).
Here it is...
@ngreusel: nice flatbow! do you have a photo at full draw, to get a better look at the tiller? (and maybe a front view, to see limb silhouette?)
for future work, i’d recommend a few small things:
1) round off the edges of the limbs that are facing the bow’s back (the outside, tension side). not much, just a 2–3mm radius. even with a very straight-grained board, you get grain running off the limb edges the moment you start tapering them in width. if you are a tad unlucky (a growth ring with a bit more early wood, overstrain due to uneven tiller, etc), you could end up having enough load concentrated on one of those hard back edges to split the limb apart. smoothing the edges reduces the focussed load a little, making the bow safer. (n.b.: i did the same thing as you did on my first bow and it didn’t break either. depending on wood species, quality & bow layout, it may just put you one more step towards being on the safe side to not wreck a bow, though)
2) most wood species are much stronger in tension than they are under compression, so you can make your limbs a little less wide on the back than they are on the belly. with a rectangular cross section, you are making the back much stronger than the belly, so the limb’s reaction to heavy strain is crushed wood cells on the belly and increased permanent curvature, not rupture of wood cells on the back and an exploding bow. to a certain degree, that is a good thing because a bow that just takes set is safer than a bow that explodes at full draw. but with a wide back, you are needlessly increasing the compression load on the belly AND you are putting mass on the limbs where it doesn’t contribute to good cast. (historical note: the english longbow is noted for its characteristic 'D' cross section with a flat back and narrower, rounded belly. this is probably a combination of using yew wood, which is its very own kind of beast, and a safeguard against bows exploding in use. even though, real medieval livery bows usually didn’t have that pronounced 'D' near as much as victorian lawn archery bows, the later aristocratic taming of an actual weapon of war. going back even further, there were similarly shaped yew bows in the neolithic that have a properly narrowed back and a flat, wide belly, like a reversed english longbow 'D' cross-section. these most likely had better cast per pound of draw weight, but were built at much less extreme draw weights than the english 100+ lbs. the pronounced 'D' cross-section isn’t the pinnacle of bow design, but the child of a very specific historical & cultural niche.)
3) your tip overlays look very nice, but the shearing force on the glue line is a weak point. i’m not saying to not use overlays, but be mindful of adding another point that can fail. you can reduce the risk by not glueing them on the flat bow back like you did, but grinding the glue surface at a shallow angle to the back. that way, the string presses down on the tip at a somewhat better angle. note that you can put perfectly satisfactory side nocks in limb tips that are ~1cm wide. it’s always surprising how little wood it takes. using overlays for the nocks, you can reduce tip width to the width of a normal wooden pencil, saving weight. on wider limb tips, they are only cosmetic.
4) i am aware that having or not having an arrow shelf is a very personal matter, but i just have to type out this quote: "shelves are for keeping books on." (rod parsons)
anyway, very good to see a fellow bowyer here :) good luck on the next bow!
@gekitsu: Thanks! Sorry, I don't have a pic of full draw; and the reason I'm making a new bow is that this one just developed a crack, so unfortunately there will never be a full draw pic now. A few guys at the range said the tiller looked quite nice, though. It survived probably around 2,000 shots, and I'm still quite proud of it for my first bow.
The limb silhouette is a straight pyramid shape.
It's hard to see in the pictures because of the paper backing, but there is about a 3mm radius smoothing the sides into the back.
I was a little concerned about the glued-on tip overlays, too, but I never had any problems with them.
I'm currently rough-shaping an Osage Orange stave for my new bow. I got it from my a tree my uncle cut down on his farm. It's far from perfectly straight, but I think I can make it work, maybe with the help of a little heat bending. It's a completely different animal than a board bow, though. Tillering seems like it will be a lot trickier than with a nice straight board.
This past weekend I assembled my DJI F450 quadcopter with a Naza Lite. I found it pretty simple to assemble, the toughest part was routing all the wires. The layout of the connections on the Naza do not line up with where those components physically are on the quad, which means the wires are all jumbled up. I bunched up all the jumper wires and taped them to the top of the Naza, hopefully this wont cause some interference or something.
I'm still waiting for my radio and batteries to come so I can finally get this thing off the ground... and likely instantly smash into a tree or rock.
@ngreusel: you can say that again! i’m just sitting on my first non-board bow as well (a rowan sapling on its way to a hopefully 60–70-ish lbs @ 30″ D-bow) and it was really disconcerting at first, how you can’t just draw lines with a long straightedge and work from there. it’s been working quite well so far, though. a calliper satisfied my numbers brain until the thing started bending, and from there on, i didn’t really miss the exact layout anymore. compared to working on a board with flat sides everywhere, i am really glad i built myself a shave horse in the mean time. it’s so much more convenient for holding irregularly shaped workpieces.
i had my first experiences with steam bending on this one, too.
sorry to hear about the crack – but if the first bow doesn’t break before it’s finished, i call that a roaring success. :D
I "oldified" the footage I took of my Hexbug mod.
Scrumbot Labs brings you The Desktop Sentinel.
@spacebovine That's excellent! Also, I took a look at your site and ended up reading all of your "Notes from a train".
So last year, after seeing all of Adam's costume builds, I finally decided to take the plunge and make my own semi-elaborate halloween costume; Gordon Freeman's HEV suit from Half Life 2. Ended up documenting most of the process and I think it turned out pretty decent for a first time build and whole lot of foam sheets and hot glue.
The whole process from beginning to end is here http://sheehanraziel.wordpress.com/ . Ended up learning a lot...hot glue melts foam...velcro isn't always the best choice. The amount of flexibility you lose just by a few inches of foam pushing into joints is insane. Will definitely have a much more efficient build process next time.
@firebird: Thanks! I hope you enjoyed the Notes From a Train stuff, writing them certainly made the daily public transport grind go faster :)