Had to try out this paper craft thing - Here’s the result:
It’s the Sankei kit of the house from My Neighbour Totoro.
I also made a rough little stop motion log of the build:
It’s my first attempt at paper craft, so I took it as a learning experience. I thoroughly enjoyed it, but found it quite tricky - Mostly because the material is rather unforgiving (there’s very little you can do to fix any mistakes after the fact). I got the the bug now though an will certainly be buying more of these kits.
@fxgovers: great result, I bet many "ratta tat" and "vrooooooooor" noises were made by the recipient (and any adults who happened to be nearby). Thanks for the wood tip too!
@behre: That stop motion is awesome, reminds me a bit of Frank Howarth's woodworking videos on Youtube :)
Hi folks. Here are a few bits and pieces to serve as a bit of an intro.
In my job as a digital artist and educator I spend a lot of time on computer, so at the end of each day I tend to create off computer as much as possible. I work in a large amount of materials, but I don't have a workshop (or a large assortment of tools) so I tend to do a lot of repurposing and adhoc sculpture rather than flat out construction. I do quite a bit of my work in Super Sculpey.
Lately I have been working in a steampunk aesthetic and so I may as well show some of that first up.
I'm here to learn, but if you have any questions I'd love to fire into some explanations...just ask!
Anyway...here are some piccies.
@spacebovine That is utterly amazing - love the PC case - you really nailed the aesthetic here with the colors and shapes - well done. BTW, I used to work on a Zeppelin (I'm not kidding) - see Airship Ventures via Google - love your airship as well. Great job. How are the creatures sculpted? what material did you use?.
@fxgovers: thanks for your kind words :) I can only hope that the zep you were on was slightly less dangerous than The Fiesty Barnacle...at the very least I presume you weren't hunting Sky Kraken.
The creatures are a mixture of Super Sculpey and found object bits and pieces. The Spriggan actually has real dragonfly wings (from a dragonfly carcass I found in my backyard) and the Wood Imp has a walnut shell cod piece. Internally I use wire as an armature before bulking it up with aluminium foil, which is far cheaper than Sculpey. Sculpey is a pretty forgiving medium and can be baked more than once so it is possible to bake things like eyes and teeth separately before adding them to the overall sculpture.
The pcmod is still work in progress and definitely needs more weathering, but it is an ongoing project, while already being a fully working pc.
@kim_a: Thank you - Really nice to get the feedback!
@spacebovine: Wow - Awesome stuff! (Better watch out for those mythical creature preservationists though...)
@spacebovine Love it, I am impressed and adore the weathering/aging the pieces have.
@TsunamiJuan: thanks. The weathering is often the most fun part of the project and if I am to be totally truthful it often hides a few manufacturing sins ;)
@behre: thanks (shhhhhhhhhhhhhhh) ;)
@Tulio Laanen: Fantastic stuff, love a good automaton...I really need to get more movement into my projects.
@Tulio Laanen: so cool, did you use plans, or create it yourself? either way, great work
@Tulio Laanen: I really like the little bit of chaos theory up the top...which way will the ball go?
Teensy Super Sculpey weapons. I'm going for a stylized but recognisable cartoonified feel of some iconic weapons.
It is really quite difficult to get hard edges in sculpey, so I'm trying to work within the limitations of the material with squishy proportions.
First image is of unpainted Sculpey...thats an Aussie coin for scale :)
@Tulio Laanen: Awesome, very nice job on getting the rhythm perfect; the duration of the ride is exactly the time needed for the lift to go up and down, I like that.
@spacebovine: Nice, great detail on some of those pieces. What do you paint it with?
@General Desire: Thanks...Just pretty simple acrylics with some black washes and lots of drybrushing.
@spacebovine: More great looking stuff, those tiny weapons!
Now a think the cartoonishness of them is a feature, but if you should even want the hard edge - Ever tried a combo of styrene and something like Green Stuff?
Not as fast as Sculpey (since you'd have to wait for the green stuff to harden) and slightly different sculpting techniques involved - But similar enough and can be just as fun (in my experience), and it's still possible to work at speed if you have several things going at once.
@behre: thanks for the tip, I'll definitely give that a go if I need some harder edges! I also need to try another Sculpey product "Super Sculpey Firm" apparently it is good for getting higher levels of detail.
Couldn’t find pics of anything good I’ve done with green stuff, but here are a couple of projects with mostly styrene.
They are scratch built 1/144 scale biplanes made as gaming miniatures for a game called Wings of Glory (used to be Wings of War). For scale of pics, the cutting board grid is ~6 mm.
The extra clutter on the parts pic on this on this one is to handle rigging during painting.
This is an earlier build - The little pile in the background is of discarded prototypes.
@spacebovine: Your excellent builds (and all the stuff on Tested in general) has reawakened miniature building bug in me. So I think I have to start working on some creatures and/or props. Once I’ve settled on a good theme and scale…
@behre: That NIEUPORT is a beautiful little thing. I really like your choices of where to simplify and where to keep the detail.
Glad to hear you are going to do some more miniature work...I love the feel you get from a perfect little thing that takes up such a small amount of space in the universe :)
@animek02: that's a nice idea. I tend to make sure that anything I make that is someone else's IP stays as a one off, but I am planning on doing a range of steampunk and fantasy weapons at a similar scale and level of stylization and I'll definitely keep you idea in mind for them!
Well, finally got round to finishing my OneTesla Tesla Coil. And uhh... WOW.
Here's a longbow I made from red oak and black walnut. I assembled the arrows, but didn't make them from scratch. This is actually from a couple years ago. I'm just now starting on making my second bow. Hopefully it'll be done in a few weeks!
@ngreusel: What a beautiful looking piece of kit that is, great result!
@JakeLinzey: Amazing to see something like this at such a massive size. It is interesting that it still retains some of its "cuteness" while gaining a large portion of "I will exterminate you...your family...and your house".
I have been very lucky to have worked for some great clients - I will dig out some more of my other work at some point and share it here.
@JakeLinzey Awesome, Love the paint job on it.
"Kill all Humans!!!!" - Bender "Bending" Rodriguez
This guy is now patrolling my desk , keeping my specimens free from stealthy, thieving hands. I'm still working on the video...will probably make it into an old advert.
It started life as a Hexabug Spider toy that looked like this...
After a lot of painting, and modding with brassy bits and wood it now looks like this...
This project has been done for a while, but I finally shot some footage of it moving (just with my phone so it isn't brilliant).
Here it is...
@ngreusel: nice flatbow! do you have a photo at full draw, to get a better look at the tiller? (and maybe a front view, to see limb silhouette?)
for future work, i’d recommend a few small things:
1) round off the edges of the limbs that are facing the bow’s back (the outside, tension side). not much, just a 2–3mm radius. even with a very straight-grained board, you get grain running off the limb edges the moment you start tapering them in width. if you are a tad unlucky (a growth ring with a bit more early wood, overstrain due to uneven tiller, etc), you could end up having enough load concentrated on one of those hard back edges to split the limb apart. smoothing the edges reduces the focussed load a little, making the bow safer. (n.b.: i did the same thing as you did on my first bow and it didn’t break either. depending on wood species, quality & bow layout, it may just put you one more step towards being on the safe side to not wreck a bow, though)
2) most wood species are much stronger in tension than they are under compression, so you can make your limbs a little less wide on the back than they are on the belly. with a rectangular cross section, you are making the back much stronger than the belly, so the limb’s reaction to heavy strain is crushed wood cells on the belly and increased permanent curvature, not rupture of wood cells on the back and an exploding bow. to a certain degree, that is a good thing because a bow that just takes set is safer than a bow that explodes at full draw. but with a wide back, you are needlessly increasing the compression load on the belly AND you are putting mass on the limbs where it doesn’t contribute to good cast. (historical note: the english longbow is noted for its characteristic 'D' cross section with a flat back and narrower, rounded belly. this is probably a combination of using yew wood, which is its very own kind of beast, and a safeguard against bows exploding in use. even though, real medieval livery bows usually didn’t have that pronounced 'D' near as much as victorian lawn archery bows, the later aristocratic taming of an actual weapon of war. going back even further, there were similarly shaped yew bows in the neolithic that have a properly narrowed back and a flat, wide belly, like a reversed english longbow 'D' cross-section. these most likely had better cast per pound of draw weight, but were built at much less extreme draw weights than the english 100+ lbs. the pronounced 'D' cross-section isn’t the pinnacle of bow design, but the child of a very specific historical & cultural niche.)
3) your tip overlays look very nice, but the shearing force on the glue line is a weak point. i’m not saying to not use overlays, but be mindful of adding another point that can fail. you can reduce the risk by not glueing them on the flat bow back like you did, but grinding the glue surface at a shallow angle to the back. that way, the string presses down on the tip at a somewhat better angle. note that you can put perfectly satisfactory side nocks in limb tips that are ~1cm wide. it’s always surprising how little wood it takes. using overlays for the nocks, you can reduce tip width to the width of a normal wooden pencil, saving weight. on wider limb tips, they are only cosmetic.
4) i am aware that having or not having an arrow shelf is a very personal matter, but i just have to type out this quote: "shelves are for keeping books on." (rod parsons)
anyway, very good to see a fellow bowyer here :) good luck on the next bow!
@gekitsu: Thanks! Sorry, I don't have a pic of full draw; and the reason I'm making a new bow is that this one just developed a crack, so unfortunately there will never be a full draw pic now. A few guys at the range said the tiller looked quite nice, though. It survived probably around 2,000 shots, and I'm still quite proud of it for my first bow.
The limb silhouette is a straight pyramid shape.
It's hard to see in the pictures because of the paper backing, but there is about a 3mm radius smoothing the sides into the back.
I was a little concerned about the glued-on tip overlays, too, but I never had any problems with them.
I'm currently rough-shaping an Osage Orange stave for my new bow. I got it from my a tree my uncle cut down on his farm. It's far from perfectly straight, but I think I can make it work, maybe with the help of a little heat bending. It's a completely different animal than a board bow, though. Tillering seems like it will be a lot trickier than with a nice straight board.